In Mumbai, Ramzan and the monsoons coincide. As I made my way into Bohri Mohalla, determined to explore this nugget of heritage and culture tucked into the crowded market area of south Mumbai, dark clouds descended ferociously. I had heard of the overcrowded Mohd. Ali Road too often; this quaint, old place offered the perfect alternative. I reached just before sundown, when all the Muslims made a beeline to the nearby mosque to offer their evening prayers. Soon, the resounding azan filled the air, and the Mohalla stood still. Families broke their fasts together in communal plates, along the lanes, in their shops; I couldn’t help but feel the togetherness and peace in that moment.
Then, the rain came and went for the next hour or two, in aggressive spurts. That, with the religious fervour and intoxicating smell of food made it easy to ditch the heavy photography gear and stick to a cell phone. Hundreds of communal tables were laid out end-to-end by consecutive kiosks selling authentic Bohri cuisine; from chicken tikka to the elaborate Paaya or the 12 Handi, all was found here.
There is something about getting drenched in the first rains of Mumbai monsoons as you get pushed and elbowed while you gulp down more red meat than you ever thought you could. In the commotion and gastronomical delirium, it is easy to overlook years of ancestral tradition, community and celebration in motion during this holy month.
(This story was first published on 16 June 2016 and has been reposted from The Quint’s archives to mark the month of Ramzan)
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