“Who passes?”
I announce my name.
“Welcome to Winterfell” proclaims the bespectacled man draped in a long black robe. Seconds later the sword that he calls Longclaw is pressed against my neck. “Announce the purpose of your visit!” he demands.
I proudly announce that I am a ‘Thronie from India’. Jon Snow (at least he thinks he is) finally lets me pass.
To call Game of Thrones one of television’s biggest phenomena might be an understatement. Unabashed nudity, a stellar cast, jaw dropping locations, stark violence and a cunning trait to bump off key characters along the way – the show’s got it all.
And this is where it all began, at Castle Ward in Northern Ireland that morphed into Winterfell.
How the GOT Trail Became a ‘Thing’
A range of locations – from Morocco to Croatia to Iceland, have been used as a backdrop for the show but Northern Ireland is truly the show’s spiritual home.
Not only did it begin here – with HBO filming the pilot episode around the Castle Ward area – but the show’s indoor sequences continue to be filmed at Titanic Studios in downtown Belfast.
The legendary Titanic was built in Belfast and one of the city’s newest attractions is the Titanic Museum where Thronies (me included) gaze desperately into the nearby Studio hoping to spot a hint for the next season.
The Game of Thrones trail officially became a ‘thing’ in 2015 with the debut of Season 5 and Castle Ward can get slightly ‘touristy’. You can try your hand at archery or click selfies with props – but what you see here, minus the CGI, doesn’t quite compare to Winterfell in Season 1.
Thankfully, my next stop looks even better than it looked on TV.
When the Stuart family planted an avenue full of beech trees in the 18th century (to create a pathway to their manor – Gracehill House), they would not have imagined it would become one of Ireland’s most photographed roads!
This photogenic, tree-lined avenue came to be known as the Dark Hedges, almost sinister enough to become the setting for ‘King’s Road’ in the show.
It’s on this road that Arya Stark makes a dramatic escape from King’s Landing in Season 2. An incessant drizzle adds an element of drama – and apart from two other American tourists (who tell me they are not big Thronies) – the road is all mine for the evening.
Why Antrim Stands Out Amidst the World’s Coastal Drives
From California’s 17-mile drive to the Great Ocean road near Melbourne, I’ve done my share of road tripping along some of the world’s most iconic coastal drives. Yet, on that cloudy afternoon, nothing quite compared with Northern Ireland’s Antrim Coast.
Almost every stop along the way looks good enough to be a GOT location. Some spots have been used while some dramatic locations (I couldn’t figure why) like Dunluce Castle – on the edge of the ocean – haven’t.
It’s very close to Ballintoy, one of the region’s oldest working harbours (for local fishermen) that hasn’t changed much for years. Ballintoy was depicted as Lordsport harbour – part of the Iron Islands in Game of Thrones and was also used for the scene of Theon Greyjoy’s homecoming after 10 years in Winterfell.
I struggle to cover all stops within the GOT trail – not because they are spread out but because I can’t resist deviating from course much to the dismay of Billy, my travelling companion.
One of these detours took us to Giant’s Causeway, a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is a complex grid of 40,000 interlocking basalt columns – caused by volcanic eruptions (mostly hexagonal in shape) – that form a stepping stone pattern from the cliff till they disappear into the sea.
Stunning!
Billy’s focus ensures that we tick off the the pre-historic Cushendun caves where Melissa gives birth to a ‘shadowy’ baby in Season 2 and the Murlough Bay area.
Of Precarious Rope Bridges & GOT Jewellery
I decide to try the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge – an essential route for Salmon farmers for hundreds of years – which has now become a spot for adrenaline junkies. A heavy shower plays spoilsport, however, forcing me to abandon my rope adventure.
Billy suggests we head indoors and an hour later we are at Steensons in Glenarm that has crafted some of the show’s iconic jewellery including King Joffrey’s intricately designed crown.
The craftsmen love to talk about their work for the show and check if I’d like to prove my allegiance to the house of Stark with one of their handcrafted brooches. I tell her that I’d rather use that money to come back to Ireland and cover spots like Belmore forest.
Billy nods in approval; it’s a good thing he keeps a list.
Getting there and around: Belfast’s George Best airport is connected with frequent flights from London.
Accommodation: Europa hotel, once known as the ‘World’s most bombed hotel’ during the troubles in Northern Ireland is now a chic retreat with a great location. (www.hastingshotels.com)
(Ashwin Rajagopalan enjoys communicating across boundaries in his three distinct roles as a widely published lifestyle writer, one of India’s only cross cultural trainers and a consultant for a global brand services firm. Ashwin writes extensively on travel, food, technology and trends)
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