In the restive heart of Shehr-e-Khaas – also known as Downtown in Jammu and Kashmir's Srinagar – the barbed wires encircling the area stand as a poignant reminder of the region's enduring struggles. These tangled barriers are not just physical structures, but symbols of the persistent challenges faced by its residents.
For years, people in Shehr-e-Khaas have adapted to this environment, camouflaging the wires with trees and other objects to fit them into their daily lives.
After a decade-long wait, on 25 September, 7.44 lakh eligible voters will cast their ballots to decide the fate of 93 candidates, including 44 independents, across eight Assembly constituencies.
The people will make a crucial decision – whether to remain constrained by these barriers or seize the opportunity to redefine their future and break free from long-standing limitations. Yet, a pressing question remains: Are the residents of Srinagar ready to embrace this chance for change, or do they view it as a futile endeavour?
'No One Understands Our Pain'
Showkat Ahmad is a renowned bread-maker known to bake kaandur, a traditional Kashmiri bread, for 40 years now. Speaking to The Quint, he said,
“I’ve seen the city engulfed in conflict, even when we had our own government. Despite the turmoil and promises from the National Conference (NC) and the People’s Democratic Party (PDP), we have seen no real benefits. They often spoke of ‘bringing revolution,’ but that revolution never materialised. All these parties have the blood of innocent Kashmiris on their hands. I’ve never voted in my life, and my family has a long-standing tradition of abstaining from voting. I believe that nothing will change in Kashmir.”Showkat Ahmad
Downtown Srinagar has had a long history of rejecting political parties, rooted in a deep-seated belief of non-participation in the electoral process. The area, which has witnessed several revolutionary movements over the years, continues to remain a stronghold of resistance.
Residents have consistently supported key separatist leader and All Parties Hurriyat Conference's (APHC) chairman Mirwaiz Umar Farooq, who is frequently under house arrest. Despite his confinement, the people of Downtown Srinagar continue to follow his ideology, reflecting their enduring commitment to his vision and their skepticism towards mainstream political solutions.
Rayees Ahmad, a store owner in Zaina Kadal, Srinagar, lamented how labourers and shopkeeper are struggling to recover from the impact of the abrogation of Article 370 and COVID-19 lockdown.
Criticising political parties for only addressing such issues during election season and neglecting them once in power, he said, “No government truly understands our pain.”
'Need For Govt to Prioritise Infrastructure Development'
The Jammu and Kashmir Assembly elections is attracting attention from various groups, including traders, ordinary citizens, and fruit cultivators.
While many express hope for a political environment that might address their economic difficulties, security issues, and governance challenges, some have lost faith.
Expressing their discontentment, Kashmiri people said that politics had consistently failed them, leaving individuals to navigate a system that has not delivered meaningful benefits or addressed their needs.
Many political parties, including Independent candidates and Kashmiri Pandits, have filed to contest the upcoming elections in Kashmir. Holding a printed manifesto from a Kashmiri Pandit candidate, a shopkeeper from Downtown said,
"The NC and the PDP are worried they have lost trust of the people after a decade of no elections. Now, they are resorting to every possible stunt to regain support. But here in Downtown, we don’t really care who wins. We believe in ‘Shaitan shaitan bhai bhai.’ They’re no better than (Prime Minister Narendra) Modi."
Rajouri Kadal is an area long-known for its coppersmiths and vibrant shops brimming with exquisite copperware. Post the abrogation of Article 370, traders here have become increasingly concerned about the deteriorating infrastructure, exacerbated by the ongoing smart city project. Poor road conditions, frequent power outages, and inadequate market facilities have hampered business activities, locals allege.
A coppersmith told The Quint that while the quality of copper artistry of their designs remains "exceptional and celebrated worldwide," the current infrastructural issues are a major setback.
"The roads that the electoral parties' campaign on are the same ones we depend on for our businesses... All we ask is that the new Assembly prioritises infrastructure development to create a more supportive environment for commerce," he said.
Local Traders Advocate for Tax Reforms
Many new entrepreneurs have launched their startups from home, driven by the desire to bypass the limited opportunities in government jobs and to benefit from potential tax savings.
Concurrently, local traders are advocating for tax reforms, highlighting the need for lower taxes, simplified filing procedures, and reduced compliance obligations. They argue that these changes could significantly alleviate their financial burdens.
By cutting down on the complexities and costs of tax compliance, entrepreneurs and small business owners would have more resources to reinvest in their ventures. This reinvestment could, in turn, stimulate local economic growth and contribute to a more dynamic and resilient business community, they explain.
Originally from Pulwama, Rashid Ahmad has been delivering milk to Naid Kadal in Downtown Srinagar for years now. He has witnessed the city change from a lively place to one facing serious challenges, but his work has remained stable, and he has continued to earn a steady income despite these difficulties.
“Every morning, I bring large tins of milk to Srinagar in a load carrier. The people here have always supported me. Although elections may or may not bring positive changes, it’s worrying that the local people’s trust in political leaders has grown cold. This shift is troubling for the future of any nation.”Rashid Ahmad to The Quint
Kashmir's long history of resistance has often been expressed through art, with graffiti becoming a powerful tool for protesting against government actions. The lack of support from Kashmiri political leaders has deeply impacted the region's people.
Once, Srinagar’s Downtown was covered in vibrant graffiti reflecting local sentiments about the region’s issues. Though the nature of these drawings has evolved over time, the walls of Downtown Srinagar still bear the marks of the region’s past, continuing to reflect its ongoing struggles and history.
Speaking to The Quint, Azim Dar, a local student said, “Although the abrogation of Article 370 has reduced killings and stone pelting, the worsening economic crisis and constant surveillance have created a psychological strain that is even more severe than the physical toll of stone throwing.”
'Politics Drains Our Hopes'
Downtown Srinagar has long been under the influence of the Jammu and Kashmir National Conference. However, after a decade of elections, the enthusiasm for the party is waning. Despite this, posters in one of the alleys in Downtown Srinagar still reflect the enduring presence of the party.
Abdul Rahman, a 65-year-old tailor from Srinagar's Shameshwari area and a long-time NC supporter, is now uncertain about his vote. He reflects that all parties seem to offer similar political manifestos, making it difficult to differentiate between them.
Meanwhile, Adnan, a young man in his mid-twenties, is seeking an apprenticeship with Showkat Ahmad, the local bread-maker.
Having left his village for Srinagar due to the scarcity of employment opportunities in Kashmir, Adnan is determined to support his family. He reflects on the stark reality faced by many in the region:
“Every kid dreams of success and a comfortable life, but for us in Kashmir, the reality is different. Even PhD scholars are jobless here, and I’ve only completed my 12th grade. My future is now tied to this bakery, and so are my shattered dreams.”Adnan
Criticising the current political landscape, Adnan added, "Politics is a corrupt world that drains our hope and ambition. I refuse to vote.”
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