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“We’ve always used coal in our cooking. It gives a smoky flavour that people love. If we start using gas, it won’t be the same,” Zubair, a worker at the famous Tunday Kababi restaurant in Lucknow's Khurram Nagar area, told The Quint.
"We worry that customers who have been coming here for years will stop because the food might not taste like it used to."
Zubair's concerns are not unfounded. With the Lucknow Municipal Corporation issuing a mandate to all hotels, dhabas, and food vendors to switch from coal-fired tandoors to gas-powered alternatives, the centuries-old culinary tradition – deeply tied to Lucknow's cultural identity – is under threat. The taste of the famous Lucknowi tikkas and kebabs could potentially change – and hence, draw fewer tourists and locals.
But the environmental benefits of this shift cannot be underestimated either.
According to IQAir statistics, Lucknow currently sits at fourth rank among India's most polluted major cities. The Uttar Pradesh capital's PM2.5 concentration is 11 times higher than the World Health Organization's (WHO's) annual air quality guideline value.
A key study by The Energy and Resources Institute (TERI) in 2022 had revealed coal-burning tandoors as an important contributor to pollution in the city.
Explaining the rationale behind the move, Lucknow Municipal Commissioner Indirjit Singh explained, “There are more than 2,000 tandoors working right now. The shift to gas tandoors is essential to bring transformation to the well-being of the general public.”
Amid growing concerns over the city's air quality, why is this shift away from coal crucial?
How Tandoors Are Making Lucknow's Air Worse
The 2022 study by TERI was done at 19 locations around the Lucknow district. It showed that the highest levels of PM2.5 and PM10 pollution are concentrated in Lucknow and its surroundings, where the population density is higher, and the number of restaurants is larger.
At the time of publishing this article, the live AQI index showed the air to be 'unhealthy', according to IQAir statistics.
As per TERI, converting to gas or electric alternatives may cut PM2.5 emissions by up to 95 percent, considerably improving the city's air quality.
The study had identified four basic fuels: LPG, charcoal, wood, and coal – all of which contribute to air pollution by producing particulate matter and other pollutants during combustion.
Talking about the dangers of coal-fired tandoors, Dr Rajendra Prasad, who's currently the Director of Medical Education and Professor & Head of the Department of Pulmonary Medicine at Era's Lucknow Medical College and Hospital, said,
"Coal burning greatly increases the risk of chronic obstructive pulmonary disease and exacerbates respiratory problems, especially for those who work in directly with it like food vendors. Those who have been exposed to coal smoke are also more likely to get asthma attacks. Regular health check-ups are essential for anyone exposed to coal emissions to monitor lung health."
In comparison, "gas-based cooking alternatives for coal-fired cooking will drastically cut down on dangerous pollutants like particulate matter and improve public health," Dr Prasad noted.
Gufran Beig, a chair professor at IISc Bangalore and founder of SAFAR (System of Air Quality and Weather Forecasting and Research), explained the difference in coal’s impact.
“Thermal power plants use coal at much higher altitudes through chimneys over 200 meters tall, dispersing emissions over wide areas. In contrast, coal burned in tandoors occurs at ground level, which means harmful particulates are directly released into the surrounding environment, leading to higher concentrations of pollution.”Gufran Beig, a chair professor at IISc Bangalore and founder of SAFAR
He added that incomplete combustion in tandoors produces more particulate matter compared to the complete combustion found in industrial processes.
“Switching to cleaner fuels will not only benefit public health but also significantly reduce short-lived climate-forcing pollutants like black carbon,” Beig said.
Lucknow also falls as a non-attainment city under India's National Clean Air Programme because of high levels of particulate matter that exceed the National Ambient Air Quality Standards (NAAQS), particularly during winter season.
Lucknow's Famous Kebabs Won't Be the Same?
It is amidst this growing concern over the city's air quality that the Lucknow Municipal Corporation decided to take action.
The initiative, coupled with TERI, targets to bring down the pollution from more than 20,000 eateries using coal or wood. The project will start with a total of 250 restaurants.
Even as the corporation is in the process of implementing the proposed switch from conventional charcoal tandoors for kitchen grills to gas and electric equipment in most of the hotels and restaurants, the idea has been met with some reluctance.
“The taste we get from cooking over coal is something that adds to the flavour of our tikkas, kebabs, naans, and other food items we serve,” Zubair from Tunday Kababi said. Tunday Kababi was ranked 12th on Taste Atlas's list of the world's most legendary restaurants in 2023.
Aakriti Singh, who's been coming to the restaurant for years, added,
“If they switch to gas, the kebabs won’t be the same. It’s the charred taste that makes them special.”
Another customer, Meena Fatima, feels that the switch could take away from the charm of dining out.
“If they cook on gas, the food will taste like something I can make at home. When I come out to eat kebabs, I want the full experience – taste, texture, and flavour that I can’t get from a gas stove."
As Lucknow's famous kebabs could change, vendors are also unsure of how to adapt. Restaurant operators will need to undertake the initial costs of installation as well as train their staff and give them time to adapt.
“The heat from the gas is different. It doesn’t spread the same way, and we’ll need to adjust our cooking process which can take some time,” Zubair added.
But many acknowledge that the long-term advantages could outweigh the challenges.
"The long-term benefits, including reduced pollution, better air quality, and potential cost savings on fuel is going to make this a worthwhile investment for the city’s future,” Singh said.
“I’ve grown up enjoying the flavours of Lucknow’s kebabs, and they hold a special place in my heart. However, I also care deeply about our health and the environment,” said Riddhi Malhotra, a working professional and resident of Lucknow.
She added,
"In my opinion, moving to cleaner fuels is a crucial first step towards improving our city's air quality. Though it's difficult to consider giving up the comforting taste, maybe we can figure out how to do so while choosing better alternatives."
For now, the city is pushing ahead with its efforts to curb pollution and improve air quality. The Lucknow Municipal Corporation is currently surveying food establishments to ensure compliance, and discussions are underway about potential alternatives that might preserve the traditional flavours while reducing harmful emissions.
Mirza Shaina Beg is a multimedia journalist based in Delhi. She reports on gender, health, environment, and culture.
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