Eating Through Kashmir, Leh & Lahaul: My Food Guide to the Hills

Of the time my dad and I took a 30-day road trip through Kashmir to Leh, and the food memories we amassed on our way

A travelogue told through memories of food. (Photo Courtesy: Salona Bains Joshi)

Travelling just to sightsee has become passé. The new-age globetrotter spends time, money and research to travel abroad to experience new cuisines, often forgetting that there is a whole world of cuisines within India waiting to be explored.

Four years ago, my dad and I went on a 30-day road trip to discover the delectable landscape and flavour of Northern India. I didn’t know what to expect as I embarked upon what would become a life-altering experience, where I witnessed India’s diverse culture through its culinary treasures.

I had imagined quaint places with simple food; what I got was so much more – food that not only stirred my palate, but also satiated my soul. I was fortunate to sample a variety of food – but there are five best experiences, which continue to linger even today.

Luxury tents at Saarchu – windiest place we visited on our journey. (Photo Courtesy: Salona Bains Joshi)

Of Rista, Momos and Phirni

Patnitop is a hill station close to Jammu, home to the Bakarwals. Their nomadic roots enable them to travel in the mountains – only to settle down in the summer months, refusing to accept permanent government housing and sticking to their traditions.

Famished after a long drive, we tucked into food prepared with unique ingredients – the khatta meat was my favourite; tender pieces of slow-cooked mutton in pomegranate juice melted in my mouth. We decided to explore the town in the morning after a hearty breakfast of Dogri-style rajma chawal. We tried their local delicacy Kalaadi, which is a processed cheese made from buffalo milk that is roasted to make it perfectly ‘charcoally’ and crisp on the outside, but soft, stringy and gooey in the centre – perfect fodder for the cold climate.

Sanasar, a valley filled with daisies and daffodils made for a breathtaking view. After soaking in the fragrance, we got down to business – “khaane mein kya milega?” We were lucky to meet a local who fed us kasror (fern leaves) with makki ki roti. Made with simple spices like turmeric, chilli and salt, the freshness of local produce was evident in this scrumptious rustic meal.

Confluence of the Indus and Zanskar Rivers – two different colours merging into one on the way from Kargil to Leh. (Photo Courtesy: Salona Bains Joshi)

As we passed through the Jawahar Tunnel to enter the gorgeous valley of Kashmir, we saw army jawans in Srinagar strategically stationed every few metres with guns in their hands – but smiles on their faces.

We stayed in a vintage houseboat on the Dal Lake and visited the floating markets, which served hot Maggi in the chilly mornings. The qahwa we drank overlooking the beautiful Mughal gardens had a fresh aroma of saffron and almonds that gave us a taste of royalty.

Momos, chowmein and Shandy at a quaint little joint on the way from Mulbekh to Leh. (Photo Courtesy: Salona Bains Joshi)

Dinner was had at the famous Ahdoo’s restaurant where delicious Kashmiri food like tabak maas (fried lamb ribs), rista (meatballs in red gravy), and gushtaba (minced mutton in yoghurt gravy) left us ready to hibernate, on full bellies, for the winter. One of the waiters who had worked there for over three decades told us how the restaurant had been a haven for journalists during the war. He insisted we try their phirni, which took 30 minutes to prepare. We finally relented and scooped up spoonfuls of the delightfully delicate dish.

The Culinary Joys of Leh

The journey to Leh was fascinating as we drove through Kargil, Drass and the Zozila pass. Our culinary journey also continued through the sampling of delicious thukpa made with fresh peas, spinach and carrots in Mulbekh, a charming little town where Buddhists and Muslims live in harmony.

We arrived in Leh in the evening and stayed in a guesthouse by the banks of the glorious Indus. We looked up at the heavenly night sky filled with shooting stars. We were welcomed with hot cups of butter tea with a wonderful soupy texture. After guzzling down more cups than we could count, we visited the market where women of the house proudly displayed their homegrown vegetables. Rich or poor was inconsequential; all that mattered was the pride they exhibited in their local produce.

Thiksey monastery in Leh. (Photo Courtesy: Salona Bains Joshi)

We went to Himalaya Café for an outstanding meal of thukpa, momos and deliciously addictive soft bread called thingpo. All of a sudden, we noticed everyone rush to the window – and we followed suit –

The street below was filled with crowds of people. A few minutes later, the Dalai Lama arrived in his car and almost magically, the crowds systematically parted and stood in a single file on either side of the road, heads bowed in complete silence and respect as he passed by. Talk about a surreal experience!

Himalaya Cafe in Leh Market – moments before we saw the Dalai Lama – where we feasted on steaming hot thupka, momos and a warm bread called thingpo. (Photo Courtesy: Salona Bains Joshi)

The untouched beauty of Jispa and Chail and the brimming apple and pear orchards of Kalpa (where we plucked the juiciest fruit from trees) deserve special mention as they heroically displayed the wonders that Lahaul and Spiti valley have to offer.

As my journey ended, I was left with a plate full of memories and the warmest feeling of nostalgia for what had been the most gratifying journey of my life.

(Salona Bains Joshi is a creative producer by profession and foodie by passion. Working on movies and commercials takes her to different parts of the world allowing her to pique her curiosity in new stories and cuisines.)