The Seasoned Workers of Khari Baoli, Asia's Largest Spice Souk
One cannot walk these lanes without sneezing as the strong aroma of spices is always in the air.
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The word “Bazaar” originated from the Persian word “Bazar” where it referred to a town's public market, is now has a vernacular acceptance throughout the world.
Khari Baoli in Delhi was established in 17th century by one of Shah Jahan's wife Fatehpuri Begum. It is the largest outdoor wholesale spice market in Asia.
'Baoli', means a step well, and ‘Khari’ or ‘Khara’ translates to salty, thereby translating the meaning of Khari Baoli to a salty water step well. However, the presently it is totally the opposite of what it was, there is neither water nor any well. Khari Baoli has transformed into a hub of exotic, spices, herbs, dry fruits, nuts and rice.
A bit west of Chandni Market you will find yourself on Khari Baoli Road.
Hundreds of traders and buyers gather in the market for trading spices, and the trade happens in an orderly and organised manner.
(Photo: Ribhu Chatterjee/ The Quint)
Some continue to use the old names of the shops, from the time they were set up, such as 15 Number ki Dukaan, Chawal Wale 13
(Photo: Ribhu Chatterjee/ The Quint)
These shops or spice trades are being carried forward by the ninth or tenth generations now.
(Photo: Ribhu Chatterjee/ The Quint)
One cannot walk these lanes without sneezing. The strong aroma of the red chillies and other spices is always in the air.
The market offers spices such as red chillies, turmeric, bay leaf etc. In one side people carrying sacks in hand trolleys while on the other side, the merchants and customers negotiate. It has become a business hub and its very amazing to watch how the trading happens in an organized manner. Everyday large number of sacks filled with dry fruits, spices, rice are exported to other states and internationally.
Piles of red chillies & bay leaves to be sold.
(Photo: Ribhu Chatterjee/ The Quint)
A lady selling nuts outside the wholesale market.
(Photo: Ribhu Chatterjee/ The Quint)
Post COVID the spice market is struggle for sustenance.
(Photo: Ribhu Chatterjee/ The Quint)
A cart puller is assisted by two more people to pull the heavy cart.
(Photo: Ribhu Chatterjee/ The Quint)
The bazaar has thousands 'thela walas', the porters, the men who push and pull and steer thousands of tons of spices and other dried food every day through the market. They take a heavy load which weighs somewhere around 300 kilograms, from trucks to warehouses, from warehouses to stores, and from one store to another on their wooden carts.
Although the pay for each load depends on the weight and the distance. Those who manage to buy their own carts earn about 800 rupees a day and the other two or three who help each cart man, earn as little as Rs 50 or 100 for a day's work of pulling carts.
That is also where they sleep, spreading blankets on the wooden carts they have pushed around all day.
The next morning, cycle continues as it has for years.
Workers taking the sacks outside the market to the trucks.
(Photo: Ribhu Chatterjee/ The Quint)
Workers take their turns in bringing out goods from the godown.
(Photo: Ribhu Chatterjee/ The Quint)
Cart pullers steer thousands of tons of spices and other dried food every day throughout the market.
(Photo: Ribhu Chatterjee/ The Quint)
Post-COVID, the hustle-bustle in the lanes of Khari Baoli is less noisy than usual. The usual charm of this lane has somewhat faded owing to the pandemic and changing times.
Piled sacks are taken to the retailers.
(Photo: Ribhu Chatterjee/ The Quint)
A cart puller resting on the sacks.
(Photo: Ribhu Chatterjee/ The Quint)
Many cart pullers work until they’ve saved enough to head home for a few months to see their families. And when the money runs out, they come back again to Khari Baoli.
(Photo: Ribhu Chatterjee/ The Quint)
Amid the heatwave there is no relaxation for a daily wager.
(Photo: Ribhu Chatterjee/ The Quint)
The chaos begins around 11am every day and it continues till 7pm. Most shops have their own godowns and workers. With the start of the day, the merchant’s number their sacks which are to be transported. The trolleys wait on the main gate, to be loaded and from there they are further distributed.
Sacks are numbered.
(Photo: Ribhu Chatterjee/ The Quint)
Cart pullers take a quick break before going for the next round.
(Photo: Ribhu Chatterjee/ The Quint)
The market also attracts many content creators and photographers as it gives opportunities to them to capture the beauty. But now the accessibility of the place has reduced as many stocks get stolen due to increasing number of outsiders in the area. Now, the terrace of the market is only reachable with special permission. The chaotic charm is still felt in the area.
Top view of the spice market.
(Photo: Ribhu Chatterjee/ The Quint)
The Spicy Look.
(Photo: Ribhu Chatterjee/ The Quint)
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