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Inside a workshop filled with the scent of clay, 35-year-old artisan Mohd Ayoub Dar from Charar-e-Sharief in Jammu and Kashmir's Budgam district skillfully weaves intricate patterns into a kangri, a traditional earthen pot wrapped in wickerwork.
His time-worn hands move rhythmically, displaying Dar's decades-long skill and understanding of the cultural significance of each kangri.
But, talking about World Kangri Day, celebrated on 19 February every year, Dar expresses disappointment and anger.
"What Kangri Day! Nobody pays heed to us. Only social media influencers are praised, but traditional kangri-makers are ignored," Mohd Ayoub said, emphasising that making kangri is a way of life, and not a craft, for him and many others like him.
Over the years, he alleges, the presence of influencers has threatened traditional Kangri production, promoting replica Kangris as aesthetic accessories, featuring vibrant colours and elaborate designs that appeal to a wider market outside Kashmir, and reducing the demand for the traditional kangri.
The kangri, a traditional warming tool, predates the Mughal empire in Kashmir. Historians suggest that it was introduced to Kashmiris by Italians during the Mughal era (1526-1757), but the claim lacks concrete evidence.
Historical records show kangris were in use even before 1526, closely associated with Saint Sufi Sheik Noor-u-din Wali (1377-1440), who was buried with his beloved Charari Kangri, one of his most priceless belongings.
Ali Mohd Dar, a kangri-maker from Charar-e-Sharif, who was recognised as the best kangri-maker in the valley in 2022, told The Quint, "Crafting the kangri is a legacy passed down through generations. The Charar Kangri is particularly remarkable, bearing the name of Sufi saint Sheikh Noor ud Din. It is considered a remnant from the Sheikh's lands."
Sir Walter Lawrence, author of The Valley of Kashmir, concurs with Ali Mohd, stating that "the pretty painted kanger is among the most prized of the Charari Sharif fairings."
Crafting kangris is a traditional Kashmiri practice showcasing the region's rich cultural heritage. Ghulam Nabi Ganai, a kangri artisan from Ajas in Bandipora district, famous for its kangri, describes the process:
The final product, adorned with colourful threads, mirror work, and sequins, symbolises eco-friendly and cost-effective indigenous craftsmanship.
However, traditional kangri is also staring at the decline in Parrotiopsis shrubs, affecting twig availability.
“We used to gather materials from the wild, but due to the shrub shortage, we now have to buy willow, which is expensive," says Ghulam Nabi.
Intesar Suhail, Wildlife Warden of North Kashmir, said, “The acid in hangul's stomach dissolves the seed's outer coat, facilitating germination. The decrease in the population of hangul has impacted seed regeneration. Nowadays, Pohu Hatab (Parrotiopsis) growers repopulate through budding. Availability has also decreased due to increasing use in shovel, axe, and spade handles.”
"However, it has been observed that, as it is not used for kangri or other crafts, this shrub is seen growing again in many areas," he added.
The diminishing appreciation for authentic kangri poses economic challenges, and also threatens Kashmir’s cultural heritage. Moreover, since it is traditionally used as a heating device during harsh winters, kangri production has suffered due to climate change and delayed snowfall, causing a steep decline in demand.
Despite its cultural significance, the traditional kangri has also lost ground to the convenience of contemporary heating options like electric heaters, resulting in a shift in both the physical terrain and cultural customs.
Another crafter, Mushtaq Ahmad Malik, said "The rise of electronic gadgets and built-in hamams (steam bathing) has impacted the traditional kangri market. People now prefer modern electric heaters, leading to a decline in demand. Consequently, we are struggling to meet household expenses and have incurred debts."
Mushtaq urged the government to promote kangri art, suggesting the introduction of a supportive scheme akin to those for other Kashmiri handicrafts. Malik emphasised that government initiatives would foster significant development in the profession, encouraging more people to learn the craft.
When questioned, the Director of Handicrafts, Mahmood Shah, clarified, "We have various programmes and schemes for artisans, but no specific scheme for kangri craftsmen."
Shah added, "We have been recognising such artisans with awards," citing an example from the previous year where two kangri artists from Charar-e-Sharif received awards of Rs 50,000 and Rs 30,000 as the first and second prizes, respectively.”
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