In Photos: Madurai’s 500-Year-Old Supermarket

Bang opposite the Meenakshi Temple in Madurai is a 500 year old shopping mall. You’ll want to buy everything!

‘Got Turmeric?’ : A shopkeeper at the Puthu Mandapam in Madurai. His is one among hundreds of tiny shops that sell curiosities and clothes. (Photo: Vikram Venkateswaran/The Quint)

The Puthu Mandapam (New Pavilion) was built in the 1600s by Thirumalai Naicker, one of Madurai’s most famous kings. It was intended as a resting place for royalty and to celebrate the annual nuptials of Goddess Meenakshi and Sri Sundareshwara during the Chithirai festival in May, which brings together Saivites, Vaishnavites and Muslims.

After the king’s time, it gradually became a shopping complex manned by singular artists and artisans.

‘History in the Rafters’ : Around the 1920s, the shops took over the Mandapam completely. Goods from Burma and Britain were sold then. (Photo: Vikram Venkateswaran/The Quint)

‘Baskets of Light’ : Puthu Mandapam is full of tiny shops that sell trinkets, clothes and paraphernalia for rituals. Note the exquisite detail in the ‘evil eye’ painting at the top. (Photo: Vikram Venkateswaran/The Quint)

‘Benjamin’s Buttons’: Buttons were first used in Mohenjo Daro 5000 years ago, more as ornamental pieces. They were made of seashell. Puthu Mandapam is (also) a tailor’s shopping paradise. (Photo: Vikram Venkateswaran/The Quint)

‘Links’ : There’s an old world rural charm to the place and its people. Each shop has been around for generations. Despite a language barrier, they will know what you want. (Photo: Vikram Venkateswaran/The Quint)

‘The Dance Eternal’ : One of the many sculptures in the Mandapam. Shiva’s left foot is holding down a demon. His right foot is raised above the frame. Gods and saints pay obeisance. (Photo: Vikram Venkateswaran/The Quint)

‘Pool of Knowledge’: The bookstore in the background was once a pool, built alongside the Mandapam for temperature control. Quite ingenious. (Photo: Vikram Venkateswaran/The Quint)

‘Ayyanaru!’ : The quintessential village deity. You will see him as a black granite slab, an ancient sculpture or a thirty foot effigy cast in cement in most villages across Tamil Nadu. The curved sword in his hand is the ‘AruvaaL’. (Photo: Vikram Venkateswaran/The Quint)

‘AruvaaL!’ : The weapon of Ayanar, the village God, it represents the deity Himself. It is ubiquitous, used in equal measure to slice tender coconuts, animal heads and occasionally for criminal acts. (Photo: Vikram Venkateswaran/The Quint)

‘The God Maker’ : Puthu Mandapam is full of unassuming, brilliant artists. This man transforms simple cloth to embroidered stories. He works on carved wood and chubby rubber dolls and coaxes Gods out of them. (Photo: Vikram Venkateswaran/The Quint)

‘Radhey Shyam’ : Identical rubber dolls given beautifully different make-overs. Notice the subtle differences in the eyes, lips and ornamentation. (Photo: Vikram Venkateswaran/The Quint)

‘Baby Steps’ : A wooden walker for infants that is a part of every household in southern Tamil Nadu. Typically two or three generations old, and handed down. (Photo: Vikram Venkateswaran/The Quint)

‘Needle and Sword’ : The sculpture in the background depicts a warrior in the heat of battle. (Photo: Vikram Venkateswaran/The Quint)

‘Stitched to the Nines’ : For less than 200 rupees and in less than 30 minutes, you will get a blouse/saree/churidar/dress of your choice and your design. They stitch for Gods. We are but mortal. (Photo: Vikram Venkateswaran/The Quint)

‘Vadais, Anyone?’ : This man makes brisk business an hour before lunch time, when the sun and human appetites are at the zenith. The menu, Masala vadais and appam, a fried, chewy, sweet that makes you sigh. (Photo: Vikram Venkateswaran/The Quint)

‘Fabric and Colour’: Puthu Mandapam is the best place for printed fabrics. You will find designs and colours that are unintentionally quaint and beautifully original. Many multi-outlet saree brands buy cotton and cloth from here. (Photo: Vikram Venkateswaran/The Quint)