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Camera: Mukul Bhandari, Shiv Kumar Maurya
Editor: Deepthy Ramdas
“I know only how to eat a roti.”
“I cook once a month and mum cooks 29 days.”
“I am unable to make it ya!”
These were just some of the responses I was met with, when I asked some Indian guys to try making the perfect round roti. Yup, the same staple, of which half of our country is a fan.
But what would happen if the women suddenly decided to stop making rotis instead?
Well, as much as we’d like to ask the rhetorical question time and again, the chapter plate is actually borrowed from an eponymous book by Bishakha Dutta, which talks about the biggest opposition the earliest all-women panchayats in Maharashtra faced, i.e. if you are handling the panchayat, WHO WILL MAKE THE CHAPATIS!
Vikram Doctor, a celebrated food columnist and host of The Real Food podcast, says:
This genderisation of the roti is not the only instance of its kind, of course!
This is a poster against female foeticide. It has a picture of a very young girl, odhni draped over head, beloing a roti. The caption accompanying it asks in Hindi, ‘How will you eat the rotis she makes, if you kill her off even before she wakes?’
Well, leave alone women. Even the girl-child is being considered a roti-making automaton here. Sigh!
But where did this deeply sexist, genderisation of the roti actually begin?
Here’s what food writer, Madhulika Dash says,
In fact, whether they live in a village, or a city, or videsh as part of the diaspora, rotis are the one domesticating tool that women have still not been able to get off their plate!
To this effect, Vikram Doctor recalls a personal anecdote,
Being taken for granted — well, isn’t that the reality for so many women making rotis day and night, for their families in India (and even Pakistan!).
My family is no exception. My mum has long been feeding perfectly round chapatis to the parivaar ever since she got married. Even though she is a working woman, she wakes up at 5 AM to cook for the family, and only then leaves for work. Meanwhile, the rest of us are busy snoring!
But all that labour, of course, is minus the pay!
Even then, our mums don’t shy away from making customisable rotis. In fact, it is considered a measure of how good a homemaker they are. As Madhulika Dash notes,
But what about automating rotis? Even though the thriving middle class India can afford it, they aren’t quite buying the idea.
In his podcast on the automation of rotis, Doctor had interviewed Naomi Duguid, whose book Flatbreads and Flavours argues how rotis are so customisable (courtesy the ladies) in Indian homes, that they could never be automated!
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Published: 19 Jun 2019,08:26 PM IST