Sabyasachi’s Opening Show At AICW 2015: Couture’s Hunting Ground

The Amazon India Couture Week 2015 opened last night in Delhi with Sabyasachi’s collection Bater.

Sabyasachi Mukherjee(L) with Christian Louboutin (R) (Photo: Yogen Shah)

The Amazon India Couture Week 2015 opened with a dramatic start, as designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee unveiled his Bater collection, named after the eponymous hunting bird of India. The collection was raw and untamed; and subscribed to the Indian goth aesthetic with incredible finesse.

The Amazon India Couture Week 2015 opened last night at the Taj Palace Hotel in New Delhi, and will go on till August 2nd, featuring the work of 12 couturiers, including designers Manish Malhotra and Rohit Bal.

A model wearing a baroque maxi dress designed by Sabyasachi Mukherjee (Photo: AP)

Meanwhile, the ramp was haunting, dark and mysterious – even as the sound of crickets filled the hall, warming the audiences to the dark allure of a run down hunting mansion. The haunting music that accompanied the show later was composed by a local orchestra sponsored by the Sabyasachi Art Foundation. 

The ramp at Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s fashion show at the AICW 2015 (Photo: AP)

When asked about bridal trends, Sabyasachi told The Quint that burgundy would make a big comeback and that reds would occupy a special place too.

A model wearing Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s creation (Photo: Yogen Shah)

The collection boasted of a masterful haath ka kaam. The pieces had badla embroidery, zardozi work, and resham embroidery; all interpreted in a modern silhouette.

The collection also showcased the baroque artistry that Sabyasachi has long mastered. There was lots of sheer too – although it was eclipsed by the heavy embroidery.

A model wearing Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s creation (Photo: Yogen Shah)

Dark lips, luscious eyelashes, razor sharp cheekbones and slicked back hair lent a strong character to the models, making them easy transporters of Sabyasachi’s traditional gothic aesthetic.

Model Carol Gracias wearing a Sabyasachi designed outfit at the AICW 2015Photo: Yogen Shah)

Long maxi dresses with red lacy bralettes added to the seductive charm of Sabyasachi’s collection. That Sabya likes the play of suspense is evident from the collection.

Model Lakshmi Rana walking the ramp wearing a piece from Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s Bater collection (Photo: Yogen Shah)

Jackets over lehenga cholis were a sophisticated experiment in layering. 

A model wearing an embroidered jacket over a black and golden sequinned lehenga (Photo: Yogen Shah)

Sherwanis and Nehru jackets, and bandhgalas with shawls were the highpoints of the mens wear line from the collection.

A male model wearing a Sabyasachi designed bandhgala and velvet pants (Photo: Yogen Shah)

This fashion show is also special for the fact that this is the first time that Sabyasachi collaborated with French footwear designer Christian Louboutin. In doing so, he became the first Indian designer to collaborate with the ‘shoe stopper’. Accordingly, his collection was complemented by footwear from the Parisian footwear maestro.

We met when Louboutin visited my store in Mumbai. Together we started talking about Calcutta (now Kolkata), and soon began talking about a possible collaboration.
– Sabyasachi Mukherjee

For a designer whose celebrity show stoppers are often talked about, there was an absence of Bollywood ballyhoo at this Delhi fashion show. But he came up with quite the witty repartee when a reporter quizzed him on the same:

Christian Louboutin was my show stopper.
– Sabyasachi Mukherjee

Sabyasachi Mukherjee (L) with Christian Louboutin (R), the ‘shoe stopper’.  (Photo: Yogen Shah)