Begums, Bada Talab, and Buddhism: Exploring Bhopal
There’s much to explore within the city with its towering mosques, old havelis and crowded bazaars
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Legend has it that Bhopal was founded by the Parmar ruler of Malwa, Raja Bhoj. The story goes that he built a dam (pala) to secure his eastern frontiers. Over time, the land around the dam became a city called Bhoj-pal, and later came to be known simply as Bhopal.
Much like its name, the city too has evolved - from a small settlement in ancient times to the seat of power of Nawabs and Begums to a bustling, modern day capital city. There’s much to explore within the city with its towering mosques, old havelis and crowded bazaars. There’s also plenty to see around the city from ancient caves to old Buddhist monasteries.
What To See
The city of Bhopal is broadly divided into two areas with their own characteristics. The South is the modern city of Bhopal filled with swanky residences, shopping complexes and hotels. But it is in the old city of Bhopal which is located in the north that you can really see and admire the city’s history and heritage.
A quick history lesson here: Bhopal was ruled in the 19th century by a succession of powerful Begums. And you can still see their influence in virtually every corner of the old city from the imposing Sadar Mahal, which was their Diwan-i-Aam or Hall of Public Audience to Gohar Mahal, the royal palace. Sultan Jahan Begum (1901-1926) was the last in line of the great Begums. She was a champion of women’s rights, an arts lover and also an author. She has a number of notable structures to her credit including Qaser-e-Sultani Palace and Noor-us-Sabah Palace.
Photo: MP Tourism
The Begums were patrons of art and culture and built several great monuments during their reign. Perhaps the most stunning example of their aesthetic influence on the city can be seen in the Taj-ul-Masajid, said to be the largest mosque in Asia. Beautiful minarets and an exquisitely designed structure make this the ‘Crown among Mosques’ as its name suggests. Along with this, there is also the Moti Masjid or Pearl Mosque that towers over the landscape and is architecturally similar to Delhi’s famous Jama Masjid.
Photo: MP Tourism
One cannot travel to Bhopal without visiting the lakes that form a prominent feature of its landscape. The oldest and most magnificent lake in Bhopal, and perhaps India, is the Bada Talab, which is believed to have been created when the original pala was built by Raja Bhoj. The lake is bordered by a well-planned waterfront where you can sit and look out onto a gorgeous vista of blue water, and green hills that surround Bhopal.
Photo: MP Tourism
If you’d like to delve deeper into Madhya Pradesh’s rich and multicultural heritage, a visit to the State Museum in Bhopal is highly recommended. Located in Shamla Hills, it is said to be one of India’s best designed museums. Once here, be prepared to be fascinated by the huge collection of coins, paintings, rare musical instruments and other artifacts that tell you stories of the state’s history. In the same vicinity, you have Madhya Pradesh Tribal Museum. As the name suggests, this museum is dedicated to preserving the culture of the indigenous tribes inhabiting the state. Both of these are popular tourist attractions.
Photo: MP Tourism
What To Buy
When in Bhopal, shop for Zardozi. This is an intricate style of embroidery that was made famous during the time of the Begums. You can find excellent Zardozi work at Chowk and the Ibrahimpura area of the old city.
What To Eat
Thankfully, being a foodie in Bhopal is easy thanks to the famous Chatori gully, a food street that serves up an astonishing array of delicious street food. Bhopal, owing to its Nawabi influence is renowned for its non-vegetarian cuisine, especially the Bhopali gosht korma, kadai gosht and paya soup. But the vegetarian fare is outstanding as well. Do make a point of sampling the spicy Bhopali chaat, and poha and wash it down with salty, Suleimani chai. For light snacks, many Bhopalis recommend Manohar Dairy which is known for its chaat and chhole bhature. Another place frequented by locals is the iconic Raju Tea Stall, said to be a favourite of the famous artist, M. F Hussain.
What’s Around
From the Bhimbetka Caves which are thousands of years old to the famous Stupas of Sanchi and serene Panchmarhi, there’s much to see around Bhopal.
Photo: MP Tourism
Bhimbetka is located about 46 km from Bhopal. Legend has it that the name roughly translates to “The sitting place of Bhima”, from Mahabharata. Here you will find cave paintings that date back nearly 30,000 years. Bhimbetka is called India’s oldest art gallery and as you check out the ancient art on display at this UNESCO World Heritage Site, you will realise that it has been witness to human evolution, something very few heritage sites can boast of.
If you further wish to continue your tryst with heritage, you can head to Sanchi, that’s just a 50 km drive from Bhopal. This town is known for its stupas that were constructed at the behest of Emperor Ashoka in a bid to preserve Buddhist philosophy. The most famous stupa here is the Mahastupa which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Along with the stupas, Sanchi also has temples and monasteries that will give you some idea of what life was like during the Mauryan period.
Photo: MP Tourism
Located at an altitude of 1100m is the hill-station Panchmarhi. It is also popularly known as ‘Satpura Ki Rani’ as it is situated amidst the greenery of the Satpura range. It’s here that you can see one of India’s highest waterfalls - Rajat Prapat, that has a single drop of 351 feet. If you’re looking to rejuvenate yourself in the lap of nature, then Panchmarhi is just for you.
How To Get There
Bhopal, as the capital of Madhya Pradesh, is easily accessible. The Raja Bhoj Airport located in the city serves flights from all major cities. As can be expected from a city of this size, it is also well connected by rail to all the metros and major cities, and has two main railways stations - Bhopal Railway Station in old Bhopal and Habibganj Railway Station in New Bhopal.
For travellers seeking a more scenic mode of travel, Bhopal is well connected by road. The Kushabhau Thackrey Inter State Bus Terminus, a 5-minute walk from Habibganj railway station, is the biggest bus station in the city. If you’re considering taking to the roads in your own vehicle, Bhopal is also very well linked to many National Highways across the country.
These are just a few reasons to visit Bhopal. There are many more wonders you will find on your trip here. Come prepared to experience more than you expected.
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