'Heeramandi': Here's the Regal History of Lahore's Oldest Red Light District

Sanjay Leela Bhansali's 'Heeramandi' is based on the lives of courtesans in pre-Independence India.

Sanjay Leela Bhansali's Heeramandi explores stories of courtesans.

(Photo Courtesy: IMDb/Altered by The Quint)

Filmmaker Sanjay Leela Bhansali, who is known for his larger-than-life films, is set to make his OTT debut with a multi-starrer web series – Heeramandi: The Diamond Bazaar.

The series is set in pre-Independence India and is based on the lives of courtesans in the oldest red light district of Lahore's Heera Mandi. But are you aware of the royal past of the once-infamous area?

The Origins of Heera Mandi

Heera Mandi, initially known as the Shahi Mohalla, has a rich cultural history dating back to the Mughal era. Located in the walled city of Lahore, the area served as a vibrant cultural centre in the 15th and 16th centuries, entertaining the nobility with its refined courtesans and performers.

Heera Mandi was originally developed as a residential neighbourhood for the emperor and the attendants and servants of the royal court. Since the area was close to the Lahore Fort, people started referring to it as the 'Shahi Mohalla' (Royal Neighbourhood).

The courtesans of Lahore's Heera Mandi.

(Photo Courtesy: X/@LahoreNama)

Soon, Shahi Mohalla became home to tawaifs, professional entertainers, who were associated with the royal court. According to reports:

• The tawaif culture flourished in India during the Mughal era.

• Skilled women were reportedly 'brought' by the Mughals from mainly Afghanistan and Uzbekistan to perform mujra and sensual royal dance forms of the mediaeval Indian court to entertain the visitors.

• The tawaifs were well-trained in music, etiquette, and dance by the best ustaads of the time.

• They made a significant contribution to the classical form of music and theatre.

In yesteryear, tawaifs were not sex workers but instead a statement of sophistication and class for the elite. Royals would send their children to learn etiquette and worldly ways from these women.

• Interestingly, the tawaifs of Lahore were also featured in fiction and several popular narratives.

• The tale of Anarkali, a tawaif of the Mughal court who had an illicit relationship with prince Salim, son of Emperor Akbar, is one among the many.

• It is believed that upon learning about his son's relationship with a tawaif, who were considered to be women of low class and status, furious Akbar ordered her to be enclosed in a wall of the Lahore Fort.

When Sikhs Occupied Shahi Mohalla

A painting of Maharaja Ranjit Singh on horseback with his attendants.

(Photo Courtesy: Wikipedia)

In the first half of the 18th century, invasions by Nader Shah and Ahmad Shah Abdali weakened Mughal rule in Punjab. As per a report by Peepul Tree:

• The royal patronage of tawaifs ended, leading many to migrate to other cities.

• Brothels first appeared during the Afghan attacks in Lahore.

• Two brothels were established by Abdali's troops, one in Lahore's present-day Dhobi Mandi and the other in Mohalla Dara Shikoh.

In 1762, the demolition of the holy shrine of Sikhs, Sri Harmandir Sahib, by Afghan forces united the Sikh community.

• Soon, Afghan forces were routed out of Punjab, creating a power vacuum that was filled with various Sikh principalities.

• The brothels set up by the Afghans were also shut down.

How 'Shahi Mohalla' Became 'Heera Mandi'

A tawaif performs in the royal courtroom for attendants.

(Photo Courtesy: X/@seematyagi007

In 1799, a 22-year-old Misldar named Ranjit Singh captured Lahore from the Bhangi Misl and proclaimed himself Maharaja of Punjab in 1801. He reintroduced Mughal royal customs, including the culture of tawaifs and their court performances.

• Once again, the tawaifs of Shahi Mohalla found patronage from the royal court.

• In 1802, Singh fell in love with a Muslim tawaif named Moran, leading to a separate mansion in present-day Papad Mandi, near Shahi Mohalla.

• After Singh's death in 1839, General-turned-Prime Minister Hira Singh Dogra used Shahi Mohalla as an economic centre, constructing a food grain market in the area.

Ever since, Shahi Mohalla became 'Hira Singh di Mandi' (Market of Hira Singh) or 'Heera Mandi'.

The term 'Heera Mandi' is an Urdu word for 'diamond market.' According to reports, it is believed that the word 'heera' referred to the courtesans of Shahi Mohalla, who were considered to be as beautiful as diamonds.

Why Tawaifs Turned into Sex Workers

Many tawaifs, who lost their livelihoods, became sex workers in Heera Mandi.

(Photo Courtesy: X/@ghalibkakhayal)

The fortune of Heera Mandi began to decline as colonial rule emerged in Lahore. Following the Anglo-Sikh Wars (1845–1849), the Sikh Empire came to an end, and the British East India Company seized control of the region.

Despite the changing identity of the area, tawaifs still enjoyed royal patronage in Heera Mandi. However, the British weren't interested in patronising the tawaif culture, and soon the art of mujras became associated with prostitution.

Many tawaifs, who lost their livelihoods, became sex workers for English soldiers stationed in the cantonment of Lahore's Anarkali area.

• In the early 1850s, a plague led the local British administration to move their cantonment to Dharampura.

• The British tried to shift the sex workers too, but many stayed back.

• Despite the cult of prostitution, Heera Mandi remained a centre of the performing arts, raising notable artists like Noor Jahan, Khurshid Begum, Mumtaz Shanti, and Sir Ganga Ram.

• It later earned the moniker 'Bazaar-e-Husn' (Market of Beauty).

Present-Day Heera Mandi

The vibrant havelis of Lahore's Heera Mandi.

(Photo Courtesy: X/@AmirMateen)

Even after India's Independence, the dual culture of Heera Mandi continued, with tawaifs from several communities moving to the area due to poverty or illegal trafficking. According to a report by The AZB:

• Women from impoverished backgrounds that are brought to the area face abuse, social ostracization, and are prone to sexually transmitted diseases.

• Efforts to end the culture of mujras and prostitution were unsuccessful, leading to the relocation of brothels to other parts of Lahore.

• In the age of social media, sex workers started offering online 'escort services'.

In the present day, Heera Mandi is the busiest eating hub, with vibrant street food stalls, vintage restaurants, and sweetmeat shops during the day. However, prostitution in the region continues as night falls.

(With inputs from The AZB, Peepul Tree Stories and Dawn)